When I did the Camino five years ago I promised myself I would do the Kumano Kodo sometime and I have just finished that pilgrimage. I managed to do most of it on foot and a little on bus and train. After the injuries earlier in the year I am grateful I was able to make the moves to climb the “stairway to heaven”.
Lessons on the Kumano Kodo will continue to unfold and the inevitable and timeless advice of life having ups and downs proved truer in the golden shadows of afternoon light with a laughing Buddha.
Laughter is the best medicine another message from the walk. There were many moments when a chuckle helped and aided in the ascent or descent. The universal connection a smile and some joy brings is a gateway to our common humanity, mycelium that transcends age, language, culture.
Following signs and being able to discern what they mean has been a bit easier this time. It’s been an age since I’ve been on the road in a country whose language and customs are new to me. Innovations like Google translate and Google lens have opened up possibilities usually hidden to me. Some of the poem monument translations were hilarious, so as we do more intercountry travel in post COVID times the machine learning will no doubt get better and better.
I’ve been faithful to my practice of writing a haiku a day and when the whole trip is done will transfer them into a beautifully crafted book made for goshins that I bought at the Hongu shrine. Another lesson in the thresholds we pass through as we are never the same person we were before we stepped through.
Life is ephemeral and every time we do anything at all, we are doing it for the first time. (I’m writing this on my phone on the train to Osaka heading down from the mountains – that won’t ever happen again!).
Part of the beauty of the forest has been the silence. The music provided by the breezes through the valleys or on the tree tops. Percussion under foot with autumn leaves in red, gold and the brown and green fronds of ferns and cedars.
The respect for the aged and the ancient – traditions, people, places and trees is universal in this country. The 800 year old camphor tree at the final Grand Shrine of the pilgrimage a deep lesson in preservation, humility and legacy.
Next stops are Hiroshima and finally Tokyo. The mycelium of Japan oozing its way into me. Leonard Cohen’s Anthem is in my head most days:
Ring the bells …
Forget your perfect offering …
There is a crack in everything
That’s where the light gets in.